Return to Dar - 27 May 2002
Ta ta to Zanzibar
Highs and Lows
Monty Python
We had arrange to see Fi for a final sundowner at Africa House Hotel, but as we sat there we realised that we were being somewhat uneconomical as we were missing out on Happy Hour in Blues, a rather swanky gaff with superior sunset potential. So, we upped sticks and left a message at the bar that we were off to their competitors and to divert other customers in that direction. Actually, thatís a lie. I reckoned that, if they had any commercial gumption, they may forget to give my message so I asked a couple of lasses propping the bar up to do the business.
Sure enough, just as the last rays of sun departed the sky with a fantastic view of dhows, islands, swimmers in the bay and all that kind of stuff, Fi turned up to join us. We were easily persuaded to join in on an orgy of fancy eating when, really, we should have paid another visit to the fish stalls that line the sea front at Stonetown. In the previous few days, we had eaten huge quantities of fresh, fresh seafood cooked on charcoal in front of us. Definitely a must for Zanzibar visitors
The night ferry back for some reason takes 10 hours as against the 3 on the way over. But we had no choice- the alternative was the ship where the bike had to be carried up and down the flights of stairs. This on the other hand was quite straightforward. There was a lot of discussion and argument as we mounted the gangplank. The tide is low so we go on the deck higher than previously. Each of the locals seems to have a different view on whether it will be low tide in Dar. A bunch of porters were firmly of the opinion that it would be high tide and so the bike must go on the lower deck and we must pay them ludicrous sums of money to lower the bike with ropes. But then they would say that, wouldn't they.
We were getting more and more frustrated that no one really seemed to know about the tide and the height of the harbour the other end. We resolved to speak to the captain on his arrival on the boat, to settle this one. He assured us the tide would be low so we left the bike on the higher deck and bedded down for the night, in first class which differed from the other classes only be virtue of air conditioning, there were the same ripped PVC communal seating as the other areas.
The night was long and at times rocky, but we slept sporadically.
As we docked it was clear that the bike, as sod's law would have It, was on a deck too high for the gang plank. Pat took the option of lowering the bike down the steep passenger stairs with the aid of 3 eager porters. As they eased the bike down the stairs I thought this would be an ace photo moment but was in charge of watching the bags on the dockside. Wheeling across the gangplank was a cinch in comparison and we rode wearily back to the campsite to see if our tent and panniers were still intact.
Thankfully my worries about the gear were unfounded, and after a shower we felt ready for the day.
I bumped into Mark in the early evening and it seemed that he must have, at last, really miffed someone who had resorted to sticking the nut on him. Pointing at his head, I asked ìBeen in the wars Mark?î. His reply had me choking back the laughter. ìI got bitten by a ten foot pythonî He then went off on one about how useless his staff were and that they all rushed around and tried to get him an ambulance and everyone was afraid of the snake and and and.
I pointed out that he had in fact been savagely bitten by a large wild reptile and that although it was not venomous, maybe the wound should have been cleaned or dressed. No. This was simply a flesh wound and not worthy of any real comment. He later proudly showed us his new snake pit in which his prize python is to be housed. It was dark and he had to cajole the poor guards to shine their torches over the edge while he poked around in a deep puddle. ìFurther, man, further. Come on, itís not going to bite you!î and all that kind of stuff.
Absolutely mad as an egg. We shall miss Mark and his bizarre addition to our trip. Let us hope that we bump into another complete nutter soon.