Irbid is back up into the north west corner of Jordan and we had only bypassed it in order to get to Amman for Chrimbo and so get the full swanky treatment. So we felt that we should return to the north to take in the highly recommended local sites.

Boring trip up the Kings Highway gave way to uninspiring Irbid town. As ever with big towns, signs for the centre disappeared at the city limits and we used the force and a bit of banter with the locals to find our way to a simple but clean gaff run by the cutest little guy you could imagine. His English was terrible, but his laughter infectious and we rapidly felt very welcome.

Spending a couple of hours to find an Internet cafe yielded nowt and so we went back to our hotel to lick our wounds. Hungry, we set out for chomps only to find an Internet establishment 30 yards away from the hotel. Tout ca change... talking of which, the Internet cafe had a sound system puping out top French pop of the 70's. Netted out and well fed, we retired to try to shake off the remains of our colds.

After breakfast, we headed out - more Roman stuff I'm afraid, but as ever bigger and better than the one before! Umm Quais (it is spelt as many different ways as you could possibly imagine as it is a transliteration form Arabic) has a hugely long colonnaded main street, 3 theatres (beginnings of the multiplex phenomenon?) and most importantly splendid views over Lake Galilee and across to the Golan Heights.

Travelling down the Jordan Valley following the border with Israel, I was struck by the calm; the children playing footy, the guards joking with us, the shepherds herding goats. It is hard to imagine that just across the valley is one of the most hotly disputed pieces of land in the world. Our map of Jordan includes the West Bank of the Dead Sea, the bank notes picture Jerusalem - clearly the Jordanians do not acknowledge the Israeli claim to the land. To the extent that if you cross to the West Bank the Jordanians do not regard it as an international border and so do not stamp your passport. The fact that no foreign visitors are travelling to the area at the moment renders this information useless. The Golan Heights are of course Syrian - but what's a bit of hill between enemies.

The King of Jordan seems to be the master of diplomacy. Whilst ignoring Israel's claim on parts of land his kingdom, remains close economic allies of Israel. To be able to take money from Jews whilst disagreeing with their politics shows a remarkable pragmatic skill. Saudi Arabia to the South is a strict Islamic country and somehow tolerates Jordan's liberalism. Into the bargain the King manages to court American and British consulates. I have to take my hat off to him, in a no win situation he seems to be able to keep all the balls in the air - I only hope they don't all come crashing down and his successor has at least half his skill.

The Jordan Valley is a veritable green and pleasant land. The greenness only surpassed by that of tropical rain forests - a welcome change from the parched earth of Eastern Syria. Is this what the bible meant by a Promised Land? This microclimate below sea level is warm, wet and fertile. No wonder really that so many people want a piece of it. Jordanian Valley wine isn't bad either, though so far Bethlehem tops the chart for wine production in this area.

We made a few tentative investigations about crossing into Israel. But anxieties about the stigma of an Israeli stamp/Jordanian-Israel exit stamp affecting our chances of a Sudanese visa, are putting us off. (Bombings in Israel area do not appeal either!) But cycling round picturesque Lake Galilee is tempting and we ought to take full advantage of our multiple entry visas for Jordan. In the end we'll probably decide, depending on which way the weather looks best. How long is a piece of string?